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Langspil

Jón Sigurđsson is one of the most traditional names in Iceland. Sort of what John Smith is for the United States or Jose Garcia for Spain. It should then not come as a surprise that Jón specialises in building traditional folk instruments. Born in the viking town of Thingeyri, Jón has been playing music since he was 13 years old. However, it wasn’t until 2003 when an Estonian music teacher asked him to build a langspil that he started building his own instruments.

“I wasn’t sure if I could build instruments, but I looked at it as a challenge and gave it a try. The first langspil was a basic one, just a straight box with 4 strings. Then I just started making other folk instruments that I was curious about. I couldn’t afford to buy those instruments so I just made them myself. If I could make a simple type of Langspil I could make something else too. That’s how it started.”

Langspil is a traditional Icelandic drone zither. The oldest written sources describing the langspil are from the 18th century. In those times langspils are described as a long thin box, wider at the bottom end and with one to six strings. In the early 19th century a version with a curved soundbox emerged which has improved sound qualities. By the middle of the 20th century the instrument had become rare and few played it any more. However, in recent years old folk music has been gaining more popularity and more and more people are showing interest in this instrument. And since it only has 1 melody string with 1 to 5 drone strings (usually 2) it is easy to learn to play it compared with more complicated instruments.

“I have experimented with different kind of wood. First I used Icelandic pine, it looked great but the wood isn’t good for instruments. Now I use maple and mahogany. I put my stamp inside, so you can read which number and the year of the making.”

Jón is hesitant to call himself a luthier. “Making instruments is still just a hobby. But the instruments are getting better, and each one is better and better”.

Together with his wife Rakel they are active in the viking community of Thingeyri, performing at various local events. It’s worth making an effort to see them perform. Or simply pay them a visit at Jón’s open workshop.

Video made by Vaida at Skóbúđin - museum mundane.

My place, Hesteyri

Albertína Elíasdóttir tells about Hesteyri, in the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve:

I am fortunate enough to have had many wonderful times at Hesteyri, Jökulfjörđur. As many people know, an old uninhabited village is located there, which was abandoned in 1952. ­The old houses that remain are being used as retreats by the former inhabitants’ descendants, particularly during summer. I have visited Hesteyri nearly every year since I was born and savored time there with my grandparents, parents and other family members. The older I get, the more frequently I visit this special place on my own ­often entirely alone no one else around save for the birds and foxes and perhaps the odd mouse.

In our house we have a loft to sleep in and a trapdoor in the floor. During those stays on my own in the house, I have experienced more than once or twice, someone walking up the stairs lifting the trapdoor and having a peak. Only to have it shut back and I’ll hear footsteps on the way down again. I will admit this has scared me a bit, although the feeling is not terrifying, more like someone watching over me. I like to think that my great grandparents are checking in to make sure I blew out the candle and the like. When I experience something like this I have always found it helpful to recite a preface from the folk tales of Jón Árnason, used to invite elves to one’s house on New Year’s Eve: “Come those who wish, stay those who wish, go those who wish, harmless to me and mine.”

Story courtesy of Skóbúđin - Museum Mundane

Living at Galtarviti

The 33 year old Harpa Henrysdottir spent a part of her childhood living with her family at Galtarviti lighthouse.

Harpa notes: My parents were crazy people, of course, they saw an advertisement in the paper about an available position as the light house operator at Galtarviti, and they just said "hey! Let’s apply for that". They got the job and moved, 22 years old, with their one and two year old daughters to the most remote spot in Iceland. It wasn’t possible to get there by land, but the coastguard came with supplies once a month. Sometimes people came during the winter on snowmobiles.

There were no phones, only a radio that they used to report the weather, which they did every three hours, 24 hours a day. "We went on holiday twice during the two years that we lived there, and both times we sisters got sick" Harpa says with a smile. "We were just in isolation there. I was accident-prone and a few times we needed a doctor to come and give me stitches and such. My parents didn’t understand why grandma and grandpa were so unhappy with it. I learned to make calls on the radio and once I snuck up and used it to make a call to Ísafjörđur: “Ísafjörđur, Galtarviti, Ísafjörđur, Galtarviti.” Then I was connected to the telephone operator in Ísafjörđur, and from there was connected to mom’s sister in Kópavogur, in the south of Iceland. When mom and dad came home, I was sitting at the radio talking to her."

Harpa has only been twice to Galtarviti since then. "I went there on a snowmobile with dad when I was 12. Some jar up on a shelf caught my eye – I remembered it from when I was little, and it had been in the same place the whole time. I remembered of course bits and pieces of having been there, and then I came back and it was like: “Wow, everything’s so small,” because in my memories, everything was so big."

Story courtesy of Skóbúđin - Museum Mundane

Kári the explorer

When Kári Vakaris was 2 months old we moved temporarily into an old Volkswagen camper van to tour the Westfjords for the summer of 2015. One might think that traveling with a small baby is hard, but the reality is quite the opposite. While we were discovering the secrets of the Westfjords and its people, Kári Vakaris was discovering the world. It's a beautiful process and we were happy to give him the opportunity to sense, feel, smell and see all these different places, plants and animals. And at the same time he gave us an opportunity to travel at a different pace than before, seeing our surroundings from a new perspective.

Nap time

 What we have learned from traveling with Kári:

  • Babies love engine noise and it makes them sleep in just a few seconds.
  • Babies love hot springs and there are plenty of roadside ones in the Westfjords. We began bringing Kári to the hot springs when he was a little over 3 months old.
  • Babies get you VIP access to all sorts of places. They enable you to cut cues at airports and restaurants. -Babies are great conversation starters. We make more friends now, after we began traveling with Kári.
  • Traveling with a camper van is ideal. In my previous life as a solo traveller I didn't mind being wet and miserable in a tent for days, but with a family having a dry camper van makes things easy and pleasant.

Blueberries

New friends

Seal encounter

Having a baby is no reason to stay at home. It's much rather a great reason to go and explore, go travel and discover new places as a family. And above all, it's a good way to spend quality time together and get to know the young one.

And it's summer again

It may not look or feel like summer in Iceland, but it is. In fact, the first day of summer, “sumardagurinn fyrsti”, was two weeks ago.

In Icelandic culture the first day of summer is an annual public holiday held on the first Thursday after 18 April. In former times, the Icelanders used the old Norse calendar which divided the year into only two seasons, winter and summer. Although the climate in late April cannot be considered to be summer-like, after the long winter, Icelanders still celebrate this first day of "summer" with parades, sporting events and organized entertainment, held in various places around Iceland.

It’s also the only day of the year that the rare snow unicorns come out of their ice caves.

Skiing in Arnarfjordur

Spring in the Westfjords opens up many exciting adventure opportunities. Some of the more exciting ones are directly connected to the opening of Hrafnseyrarheidi and Dynjandisheidi mountain passes. These are the roads that separate the southern part of the Westfjords from the northern part for 5-6 months every year. A couple of days after making this video the Hrafnseyrarheidi road was finally open:

 

Snow at Hrafnseyrarheidi

We had suspected there being some good skiing on the northern side of Arnarfjordur fjord. Due to its isolation during most of the snowy months it's practically unexplored with skiing in mind.

Girls plow the snow

We drove past Auđkúla farm and soon we met the first obstacle. Big snow field covered the road. But the sun was shining and we had shovels and many willing workers - so we took matters into our own hands and opened the road.

Preparing for ascent

Anna Khankevich

After shoveling four snow fields we finally found the perfect run. We packed our stuff, prepared our skis and skinned up 500 vertical meters. On top there were fantastic views to all directions. Dyrafjordur to the north, Arnarfjordur right below us and Bildudalur at the other side of the fjord. On the way down we couldn't resist shooting a few photos.

Farmer of Audkula

On the way back we met the farmer of Auđkúla who lives in Thingeyri but comes back every year to his old farm when the road opens. Wheather he or us were more surprised by the encounter is unknown. But what is known is that skiing at the north side of Arnarfjordur exceeded our expectations, but due to its isolation it's not likely to become a popular destination for skiing.

Hesteyri

People had been living in Hesteyri from the settlement times. Most of the time it was the home of just a few farmers and fishermen. It wasn't a particularly busy place until Norwegian whalers built a factory there in 1890 along with harbors and dwellings for workers. Hesteyri became an active community with a school, shop and a church. At its busiest time the population was around a hundred.

Whaling ban was put on in 1915 and the factory closed down. Quiet times didn't last long. Entrepreneurs from Reykjavik bought it and converted into a herring factory. It operated as such until 1940 when the herring disappeared. The factory closed down for good. In 1952 there were only 30 people left in Hesteyri. In the spring they had a meeting in the community house to figure out what to do about the situation. On that meeting they decided to leave Hesteyri all together the following autumn. Since November that year nobody has lived there.

Sean and Mollie

It's not very usual to see people camping in the Westfjords in the winter time. That's why Sean and Mollie caught our attention. We were curious and asked them some questions.

First things first: What are you doing here and why Iceland in winter?

"We're on a ski holiday! We got engaged here in Iceland in 2011 so it's a special place for us" Sean and Mollie tell us. 

Sean adds: "I also went with Aurora Arktika on a ski trip to Hornstrandir and fell in love with the region. It was my first introduction to fjord skiing. So I wanted to bring Mollie back here. We go to Scandinavia every year for skiing. This year it's Iceland's Westfjords to do some camping and see the northern lights. Scandinavia is where we feel connected, like we had a previous life here. And the flights to Iceland are cheap!"

Northern lights camp

Photo: Sean and Mollie Busby

For Sean and Mollie skiing is not only about skiing big mountains and deep powder. "It's about experiencing something different. Looking at the landscape and the mountains around here it seems like they're drawn by a pencil, it's something completely different. Here in the Westfjords it's also easy to get around, easy to communicate, we don't feel like in a super foreign place."

Winter camping

Photo: Sean and Mollie Busby

"Conditions here can be variable but it allows you to be a creative skier or snowboarder. Instead of aiming for a big line it's more about finding a fun gully to ride and go all the way to the water. And then there are all these arctic fox tracks all over the place, it's rad!"

Beach camping

Photo: Sean and Mollie Busby

They mention the solitude and having a whole mountain for themselves: “It’s a private playground!”.

“We also think it's cool when I get to link up with other locals, other skiers and mountain people that are here. That makes the experience so special. You'll get more authentic experience and more of an insight on how people ski or snowboard these mountains. This is their backyard."

After hiking up one of the peaks Sean took out from his backpack a little glass and spread it around. The glass contained the ashes of their friend Will.

Will's ashes

Sean tells: “Back home I used to coach competitive snowboarding. One of my favorite student athlete that I coached passed away due to natural causes a year ago. There is a general level of stoke or excitement amongst some athletes to be in the mountains. He was definitely one of those. So his parents asked me if I would take his ashes on my trips and spread his ashes in these beautiful places so that he could experience snowboarding in these locations. So I brought part of Will with me. Being out today with good company was something that Will would have wanted, he was always comical and liked being out with people. It was just so special being in the mountains today with the sun coming out, sparkling over the fjord, looking out to the Greenland sea. The perfect place to allow Will to just fly, spread his wings and experience these mountains.


 

Mollie and Sean's trip was made possible with help from their good sponsors: SADCars, Trawire, Garminbúđin and 686.

Follow their adventures at www.thebusbyhive.com and on Instagram.

Fiskur

While driving outside of Ţingeyri, we stopped at a cluster of lightly colored drying shacks along the coast.  We were lucky enough to find Ragnar drying Icelandic catfish – not the whiskery bottom feeders but a long ocean dweller with intensely strong jaws.  He happily told us that he has already caught over 110,000 lbs of catfish this season.  After a few weeks of air drying, the fish will harden and become harđfiskur which Ragnar will sell to the local supermarket chain.  A traditional model of keeping it local.

By Audrey Sherman.

Autumn adventure

Before the winter arrived we took the chance to go explore the part of Arnarfjordur that snows in when winter comes. We stuffed our VW camper with inflatable paddle boards, fishing rod and good food and drove off for two nights.

Mountain roadThe Westfjords are not a region that you just drive through in a couple of hours. Some roads are gravel and wind up and down mountains passes.

Mountain runNo adventure day is complete without a hike to the top of a mountain on a moody day - and a run down.

DynjandiIt was dark when we reached the camp site at Dynjandi waterfall but we were rewarded. The moody day had turned into a clear night with bright stars and auroras dancing in the sky. We had seen Dynjandi waterfall many times before, but never like this.

Dynjandi SUPWe woke up early morning and went straight out for a paddle on the calm fjord. After a couple of hours out we were near freezing and starving. A hardy breakfast in the VW was ideal before we’d hit the road again.

Chris with codOur next camp spot is an anonymous one. Chris wanted to see if he could catch a cod from his paddle board so while some of us climbed yet another mountain, Chris spent time on the fjord. Soon he returned with a cod big enough to feed all of us.

Aurora campWe cooked the cod over open fire and ate it during story times and laughters. Clouds had nearly covered the sky, but the auroras managed to glow through.

Our 35 year old VW adventuremobile proved its awesomeness once again; it got us slowly but surely between places and it kept us dry when it started pouring rain during our last night.